Saturday morning arrived and I was up and about before 6am again. This seems to be the habit I have formed in the UK for some strange reason. I headed down stairs to the common area of the Seaclyffe Hotel. Our accom for the couple of days in North Wales. I made a coffee, read the news and did my online French studies. This is how my days start now I am sort of settled for a little while.
About an hour later David turned up and we caught up and made some decisions about our four hours of climbing that we had available before heading back to Yorkshire. We headed out to the supermarket to get our supplies for the day and returned and ate our accom included breakfast at our “designated table” (which I thought that was funny).
We had already packed and got the gear organised but I needed a good wash, so I showered quickly and headed down to meet Dave at the car.
We jumped in and headed off to an area that Dave had not visited before. We were headed to Penmaen Head: a crag that had been developed about 5 years ago in a repurposed quarry just off the A55. The sun was out and it was a glorious and fresh day, so we were very excited about going and doing some good milage sports climbing.
We arrived, loaded up and headed down the beautiful old limestone stairs that led down the walking trail, hit the dirt track and we were standing in front of a stunning red flowstone wall. The flowstone is rare thing to some extent. It only covered about three metres across the wall. It looks like little stalactites and stalagmites have joined together over millennia. Truly amazing and weird.
We climbed three routes at Flowstone Wall Sector, on this beautiful wall and all were very good quality rock and fun lines. “Aphelion” 6a, “Blitzy’s Jug” 6a+ and “Flowstone Shuffle” 6b+ were all fabulous. Time was limited so we grabbed our things and wandered down to another sector.
Expressway Wall overlooked the sea from a nice big ledge on the upper tier and the rock looked great. I would describe it as high friction limestone, ochre in colour and a little more technical than Flowstone Wall.
We decided two routes would see us to our departure time and it was time to tie in. Climbing routes “Hotel 70 Degrees” 6b and “Clwyd MC” 6a+ was a real treat. The friction on this rock was truly remarkable and I have not experienced it as rough on any other limestone. A great morning out with a view that would see you smile all the way to the top of each route. Infectious climbing and should be genuinely appreciated for years to come.
When you leave a beautiful place, you carry it with you wherever you go.
– Alexandra Stoddard