Just because it’s there doesn’t mean it should be bolted…….

I have been climbing for approximately ten years now and although I am not as experienced as some who may end up reading this article, I am somewhat thoughtful about this outdoor activity that I love and have a passionate attachment to. It’s taken me to some amazing places in the world and I have meet some of my closest and trusted friends through it……And had great discussion with some of the most experienced and best climbers on the planet.

I am on a trip in Kalymnos with my lovely partner and we decided to explore a few of the lesser frequented crags during this particular week. Longer walk-in’s, lesser known routes, less people and new areas are always appealing and remove some of the “been there done that” feelings we have after a few trips to a place. Which, is a nice segue-way into the subject at hand?

I have always been of the opinion that not everything needs to be bolted, just because its rock. Some rock doesn’t need to be bolted because in can be naturally protected using nuts and cams and other sundry specific items one can carry, some rock is bolted because there is an aesthetic line that cannot be naturally protected but is still climbable and the route setter see’s a clear and beautiful path, so places bolts to secure a reasonable safe passage.

Some choss and some good rock…….you choose what should be bolted?!

However, some things are just not worth wasting the time on, nor spending the money on equipping, nor are they worth climbing anyway’s. Yesterday we experienced this in all its profound and hideous glory. We did seven routes in a sector and I have to say three of them were fantastic! The other four were a waste of bolts. They should never have been bothered with and they were dangerous.

Theres a lot of rock that doesn’t need bolts too.

Loose rock, horrendously sharp and unforgiving blood letting stone does not make for good climbing for most people. For the average sports climbers who come here to enjoy the sun, sea and stone this is the case.

Please remember this is only my opinion and there will be many who disagree, some even offended (it’s your choice to be offended by the way). I simply don’t think some route setters actually consider if some cliffs are worthy of the time and effort. If routes are going to be put up, be sure they are good, well equipped, well cleaned and safe.

Thanks for listening………….if you finished the article


End of rant!!


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